MARSHALL, TX

Marshall is a city in the U.S. state of Texas. It is the county seat of Harrison County and a cultural and educational center of the Ark-La-Tex region. At the 2020 U.S. census, the population of Marshall was 23,392; The population of the Greater Marshall area, comprising all of Harrison County, was 65,631 in 2010, and 66,726 in 2018.

Marshall and Harrison County were important political and production areas of the Confederate States of America during the American Civil War. This area of Texas was developed for cotton plantations. Planters brought slaves with them from other regions or bought them in the domestic slave trade. It had a higher proportion of slaves than other regions of the state, and the wealth of the county and city depended on slave labor and the cotton market. Marshall then was a large railroad center of the Texas and Pacific Railway from the late 19th century until the mid-20th century. Activists in the city's substantial African American population worked to create social change through the Civil Rights Movement, with considerable support from the historically black colleges and universities in the area.

The city is known for holding one of the largest light festivals in the United States, the "Wonderland of Lights". It identifies as the self-proclaimed "Pottery Capital of the World", for its sizable pottery industry. Marshall is referred to by various nicknames: the "Cultural Capital of East Texas", the "Gateway of Texas", the "Athens of Texas", the "City of Seven Flags", and "Center Stage", a branding slogan adopted by the Marshall Convention and Visitors Bureau.

History

Republic of Texas and Civil War (1841–1860)

left|thumb|The Wyalucing plantation was the childhood home of Lucy Holcombe Pickens, the only woman whose image was used on The city was founded in 1841 as the seat of Harrison County after failed attempts to establish a county seat on the Sabine River. It was incorporated in 1843. The Republic of Texas decided to choose the land donated for the seat by Peter Whetstone and Isaac Van Zandt after Whetstone had proven that the hilly location had a good water source.

The city quickly became a major city in the state because of its position as a gateway to Texas; it was on the route of several major stagecoach lines, and one of the first railroad lines constructed into Texas ran through it.

The founding of several colleges, including a number of seminaries, teaching colleges, and incipient universities, earned Marshall the nickname "the Athens of Texas", in reference to the ancient Greek city-state. The city's growing importance was confirmed when Marshall was linked by a telegraph line to New Orleans; it was the first city in Texas to have a telegraph service.

By 1860, Marshall was the fourth largest city in Texas and the seat of its richest county. Developed as cotton plantations, the county held more slaves than any other in the state. Many planters and other whites were strongly against the Union because of their investment in slavery.

When Governor Sam Houston refused to take an oath of allegiance to the Confederate States of America, Marshall's Edward Clark was sworn in as governor. Pendleton Murrah, Texas's third Confederate governor, was also from Marshall.

The city became a major Confederate supply depot and manufacturer of gunpowder for the Confederate Army, and hosted three conferences of Trans-Mississippi and Indian Territory leaders.

The city was used as the capital of the exiled Confederate government of Missouri, earning it the nickname the "City of Seven Flags". This was a nod to the flag of Missouri, in addition to the six flags of nations and republics that have flown over the city.

Marshall became the seat of Confederate civil authority and headquarters of the Trans-Mississippi Postal Department after the fall of Vicksburg. The city may have been the intended target of a failed Union advance that was rebuffed at Mansfield, Louisiana.

Toward the end of the American Civil War, the Confederate government had $9.0 million in treasury notes and $3.0 million in postage stamps shipped to Marshall. They may have intended Marshall as the destination of a government preparing to flee from advancing armies.

Reconstruction and the Railroad Era (1865–1895)

thumb|right|A former slave displays a horn in 1939 that was formerly used by planters to call slaves on the outskirts of Marshall. Many freedmen moved to Marshall from rural areas during

Marshall was occupied by Union forces on June 17, 1865. During Reconstruction, the city was home to an office of the Freedmen's Bureau and was the base for federal troops. In 1873 the Methodist Episcopal Church founded Wiley College to educate freedmen. African Americans came to the city seeking opportunities and protection until 1878.

The White Citizens Party, led by former Confederate General Walter P. Lane and his brother George, took control of the city and county governments. Their militia ran Unionists, Republicans and many African Americans out of town. The Lanes ultimately declared Marshall and Harrison County "redeemed" from Union and African American control. Despite this, the African American community continued to progress. Bishop College was founded in 1881, and Wiley College was certified by the Freedman's Aid Society in 1882.

Marshall's "Railroad Era" began in the early 1870s. Harrison County citizens voted to offer a $300,000 bond subsidy, and the City of Marshall offered to donate land north of the downtown to the Texas and Pacific Railway if the company would establish a center in Marshall. T&P President Jay Gould accepted the business incentive, locating the T&P's workshops and general offices for Texas in Marshall. The city immediately had a population explosion from workers attracted to the potential for new jobs there.

By 1880, the city was one of the South's largest cotton markets, with crops and other products shipped by the railroad. The city's new prosperity was shown by the opening of J. Weisman and Co., the first department store in Texas. When one light bulb was installed in the Texas and Pacific Depot, Marshall became the first city in Texas to have electricity. Some nationally known crimes were tried in the city, including the trials for the attempted murder of Maurice Barrymore. During this period of wealth, many of the city's now historic homes were constructed. The city's most prominent industry, pottery manufacturing, began with the establishment of Marshall Pottery in 1895.

Despite the prosperity of the railroad era, some city residents struggled with poverty. Blacks were severely discriminated against. At the turn of the 20th century, the Democratic dominated state legislature passed segregation laws and disenfranchised most blacks and Hispanics, as did all the states of the former Confederacy. They were essentially excluded from the political system for more than 60 years.

In the rural areas of Harrison County, more interaction occurred between White people and African Americans than in the city, and Whites and Blacks were often neighbors. However, Jim Crow rules were prominently imposed on African Americans. Several planters divided up sizable tracts of land and gave them to their former slaves, which angered poor whites.

Early and mid- 20th century

thumb|left|220x220px|The community has developed in and around Whetstone Square, shown here in 1939. Guests lodged in the Capitol Hotel, right, and the taller Hotel Marshall directly behind it. In the 1960s, the Harrison County Courthouse, center, was the site of the first sit-ins in Texas by the civil rights movement.

In 1909, a field of natural gas was discovered near Caddo Lake and began to supply city needs. Under the leadership of John L. Lancaster, the Texas and Pacific Railway experienced its height during the first half of the 20th century, and Marshall's ceramics industry expanded to the point that the city was called by boosters the "Pottery Capital of the World". In 1930, what was then the largest oil field in the world was discovered at nearby Kilgore. The first student at Marshall High School to have a car was Lady Bird Johnson, a kind of progress that excited many students.

During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, children of both races were forced into accepting the law of racial segregation in the state. Marshall resident George Dawson became a writer, later describing his childhood under segregation in his memoir Life Is So Good. He described how, in some instances, other African Americans and he refused the demands of Jim Crow. He rejected one employer who expected him to eat with her dogs.

As blacks were being excluded from politics and tensions rose, more lynchings of black men took place, a form of extrajudicial punishment and social control. Beginning in the late 19th century, a total of 14 African American men were lynched in the county, the third-highest total in the state. Suspects were often brought to Marshall for their murders, or taken from the county jail before trial and hanged in the courthouse square for maximum effect of terrorizing the black population. Between October 1903 and August 1917, at least 12 people were lynched in Marshall, all black men. Not all instances of lynching were reported by authorities, so this number is likely an undercount.

In the early and mid-20th century, Marshall's traditionally black colleges, Wiley and Bishop, were thriving intellectual and cultural centers. The writer Melvin B. Tolson, who was part of the Harlem Renaissance in New York City, taught at Wiley College. Painter Samuel Countee, a Texas born student of Bishop College in the mid-1930s, exhibited at the Harmon Exhibitions in 1935–1937 and won a scholarship to study at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts. Countee went on to have a successful career as a teacher and artist in the New York City area, where he lived and also died.

Inspired by the teachings of professors such as Tolson, students and former students of the colleges mobilized to challenge and dismantle Jim Crow laws and institutions in the 1950s and 1960s. Fred Lewis, as the secretary of the Harrison County National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP), challenged the White Citizens Party in Harrison County, the oldest chapter in Texas, and the laws the party supported. This suit overturned Jim Crow in the county with the Perry v. Cyphers ruling. Heman Sweatt, a Wiley graduate, tried to enroll in the University of Texas at Austin Law School, but was denied entry because of his race. He sued and the United States Supreme Court ordered the desegregation of postgraduate studies in public universities in Texas in its ruling in Sweatt v. Painter (1950). James Farmer, another Wiley graduate, became an organizer of the Freedom Rides and a founder of the Congress of Racial Equality (CORE), which were active throughout the South.

Late 20th-early 21st centuries

The Civil Rights Movement reached into the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s. In the 1960s, students organized the first sit-ins in Texas, in the rotunda of the county courthouse on Whetstone Square, protesting continuing segregation of public schools. This governmental practice had been declared unconstitutional in 1954 by the US Supreme Court in Brown v. Board of Education. In 1970, all Marshall public schools were finally integrated.

Also in that year, Carolyn Abney became the first woman to be elected to the Marshall City Commission. In April 1975, nearly a decade after passage of the federal Voting Rights Act of 1965, local businessman Sam Birmingham became the first African American to be elected to the city commission. In the 1980s, he was elected as the city's first African American mayor. Birmingham retired in 1989 for health concerns and was succeeded by his wife, Jean Birmingham.

Marshall's railroad industry declined during the restructuring of the industry; most trains were converted to diesel fuel, and many lines merged. Expansion of airlines and the construction of the Interstate Highway System after World War II also led to railway declines. The T&P shops closed in the 1960s, and T&P passenger service ceased in 1970. The Texas oil bust of the 1980s devastated the local economy. The city's population declined by about 1,000 between 1980 and 1990.

During the mid-20th century, the city lost many of its historic landmarks to redevelopment or neglect. For a time people, preferred "modern" structures; other buildings were demolished because tax laws favored new construction.

By 1990, Marshall's opera house, the Missouri Capitol, the Moses Montefiore Synagogue, the original Viaduct, the Capitol Hotel, and the campus of Bishop College (including the Wyalucing plantation house) had been demolished. In the 1970s, the city began to study historic preservation efforts of nearby Jefferson, and has since emphasized preservation of historic assets throughout the remainder of the 20th century.

Due to newly completed construction projects, the city was one of 10 designated in 1976 as an All-America City by the National Civic League. In 1978, Taipei mayor Lee Teng-hui, and Marshall mayor William Q. Burns, signed legislation recognizing Marshall as a sister city to the much larger Taipei. During this period, Bill Moyers won an Emmy for his documentary, Marshall, Texas: Marshall, Texas, chronicling the history of race relations in the city.

In terms of the city's economy, the 1960s through 1980s were a period of social and economic decline, largely because of the oil industry and manufacturing changes. Longview surpassed it in population and economy. In the 1980s and 1990s, the city began to concentrate on diversifying its economy; tourism has been increasingly important. Two new festivals were established, the Fire Ant Festival, and the "Wonderland of Lights", joining the longstanding Stagecoach Days. The Fire Ant Festival gained national attention through being featured on television in programs such as The Oprah Winfrey Show.220x220px|right|thumb|Downtown Marshall to the north of the former Harrison County Courthouse, 2009

The "Wonderland of Lights" became the most popular and one of the largest light festivals in the United States. By 2000, the "Wonderland of Lights" had become such a part of the cityscape that the lighted dome of the Old Courthouse was the most recognizable symbol of the city; 2011 marked the 25th anniversary of the "Wonderland of Lights" festival.

During the 2000s, the downtown area experienced moderate economic growth, which supported restoration of significant buildings. By 2005, the Joe Weisman & Company building, the T&P Depot, the former Hotel Marshall (now known as "The Marshall"), and the former Harrison County Courthouse were either restored or under restoration. Restaurants, boutiques, and loft apartments were developed in downtown, adding to the variety of its daily life and pedestrians on the streets. Some projects adapted historic structures for reuse. Many historic homes outside of downtown continue to deteriorate. Some structures in moderate condition were approved for demolition for replacement by prefabricated or tin structures. Whetstone Square has become quite busy again, with few empty buildings around it. Lack of funding and manpower has slowed movement on demolition and salvage of historic homes.

The Sam B. Hall, Jr. Federal Courthouse has been the venue for several cases challenging state practices under provisions of the Voting Rights Act of 1965. For instance, the Democratic Party challenged the 2003 redistricting by the state legislature, arguing that it diluted minority rights. Combined with two other cases, these issues were heard by the United States Supreme Court in League of United Latin American Citizens v. Perry (2006). It upheld the state's actions, with the exception of Texas's 23rd congressional district; redistricting was required that affected neighboring districts, as well. It had little effect on the new Republican majority of the Texas Congressional delegation after the 2004 elections.

An unusually high number of patent lawsuits were being filed in the United States District Court for the Eastern District of Texas, which includes Marshall, Tyler, and Texarkana. TiVo sued EchoStar over digital video recorder patent rights. Marshall has a reputation for plaintiff-friendly juries for the 5% of patent lawsuits that reach trial. This has resulted in 78% plaintiff wins. The number of patent suits filed in 2002 was 32, and the number for 2006 has been estimated at 234.

The patent suits filed here were second-highest in number, after the United States District Court for the Central District of California in Los Angeles in 2009. The trend continued through 2011 in the Eastern District of Texas, which includes Marshall, with the number of patent lawsuits more than doubling from 2010.

Marshall was profiled on This American Life, as its juries' support of plaintiffs in patent suits has generated controversy.

The city entered into a legal battle with local residents and environmentalists about the amount of water it could draw from Caddo Lake, the source of the city's water. This issue dominated city-county relations during the decade.

On January 18, 2010, Dr. John Tennison, a San Antonio physician and musicologist, publicized his research that found that boogie-woogie music was first developed in the Marshall area in the early 1870s. It originated among African Americans working with the T&P Railroad and the logging industry. On May 13, 2010, the Marshall City Commission unanimously passed an ordinance declaring Marshall to be "the Birthplace of Boogie Woogie". On September 2, 2018, the Harrison County Historic Commission unveiled a Texas Historic Marker declaring Marshall as the birthplace of Boogie Woogie. The marker stands near the entrance to the T&P Railroad Museum in the historic Ginocchio district north of downtown.

Geography

thumb|Maplecroft is the centerpiece of the Starr Family Home State Historic Site.|alt=

thumb|In the 2000s, the Sam B. Hall Jr. U.S. Court House became one of the busiest federal courts because of a high number of patent suits, the second-highest total in the nation.|left

The city of Marshall is roughly east of Dallas, Texas, and west of Shreveport, Louisiana. Marshall is closer to the capitals of Arkansas (Little Rock, ) and Mississippi (Jackson, ) than it is to the capital of Texas (Austin, ). The intersection of U.S. Highway 80 and U.S. Highway 59 and the intersection of U.S. 59 and Interstate 20 are located within the city limits of Marshall.

According to the United States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of , of which are land and , or 0.22%, is covered by water.

The city is bisected along a north–south axis by East End Boulevard (US 59). The eastern half of the city is bisected along an east–west axis by US 80, which east of its intersection with U.S. 59 is called Victory Drive and west of US 59 is named Grand Avenue. The Harrison County Airport and Airport Baseball Park are located to the south of Victory Drive off of Warren Drive.

To the west of U.S. Route 59, south of Pinecrest Drive, are older suburbs; north of Pinecrest Drive, the oldest portion of the city stretches northward over seven hills. This portion of the city radiates out from downtown, which is centered on the Old Harrison County Courthouse in Peter Whetstone Square. Immediately to the north of the square is the Ginocchio National Historic District, where the city's Amtrak station is located. This region of the city is bisected along an east–west axis by Grand Avenue (U.S. Route 80). Spreading out from downtown is a belt of antebellum and Victorian homes centered on Rusk and Houston streets.

To the west of downtown are some of the oldest African American neighborhoods in Texas, centered on Wiley College. To the north of Grand Avenue (US 80) are neighborhoods that were built largely by employees of the Texas and Pacific Railway. In addition to the Ginocchio National Historic District, this part of the city is home to East Texas Baptist University, and four historic cemeteries: Marshall Cemetery, Powder Mill Cemetery, Greenwood Cemetery, and Marshall Hebrew Cemetery.

Climate

Marshall has a humid subtropical climate, characterized by hot summers and fairly mild winters. On average, Marshall receives of precipitation per year. The precipitation is relatively evenly spread throughout the year, with only July receiving less than on average.

In the spring, severe weather is not uncommon, and tornadoes have hit the city in the past, including an F2 that struck the south side of town in 2000, wiping out a Domino's Pizza on US Highway 59.

Summers in Marshall are hot and humid, with average high temperatures higher than from June through September. Temperatures above are not uncommon, with a highest recorded temperature of in August 18, 1909.

In 2008, Hurricane Ike struck Marshall hard, with winds over . About 82% of the population in Marshall was without power for at least 24 hours.

Demographics

As of the 2020 United States census, there were 23,392 people, 8,229 households, and 5,269 families residing in the city.

In 2019, the American Community Survey estimated 22,831 people inhabited Marshall. About 26% of the city's population were under 18 and 16.4% were aged 65 or older. Nearly 52% of the city was female. The median income for a household was $43,783 and 20.2% of the city lived below the poverty line. Per the U.S. Census Bureau's 2018 estimates, the city had an owner-occupied housing rate of 60.9% and there were 7,882 households. An average of 2.78 people resided within Marshall's households from 2014–2018.

At the census of 2000, 23,935 people, 8,730 households, and 6,032 families resided in the city. The population density was 809.5 people per square mile (312.5/km). The 9,923 housing units averaged 335.6 per square mile (129.6/km). Of the 8,730 households, 32.2% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 46.4% were married couples living together, 19.0% had a female householder with no husband present, and 30.9% were not families. About 28.0% of all households were made up of individuals, and 14.0% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.55 and the average family size was 3.12.

In the city, the population was distributed as 26.1% under the age of 18, 13.4% from 18 to 24, 24.6% from 25 to 44, 20.3% from 45 to 64, and 15.5% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 34 years. For every 100 females, there were 87.9 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 82.2 males.

The median income for a household in the city was $30,335, and for a family was $37,438. Males had a median income of $30,146 versus $21,027 for females. The per capita income for the city was $15,491. About 17.8% of families and 22.8% of the population were below the poverty line, including 32.5% of those under age 18 and 15.1% of those age 65 or over.

Race and ethnicity

The racial makeup of the city as of 2018 was 40.2% non-Hispanic white, 37.7% Black or African American, 0.1% American Indian or Alaska Native, 1.6% Asian, and 2.0% from two or more races. Hispanics and Latinos of any race made up 18.8% of the population. In 2019, the racial makeup was 41.5% non-Hispanic white, 36.9% Black or African American, 0.1% American Indian or Alaska Native, 1.6% Asian, 2.1% from two or more races, and 18.2% Hispanics or Latinos of any race. The racial makeup of the city in 2000 was 54.7% White, 38.6% African American, <0.1% Native American, 0.6% Asian, 4.8% from other races, and 0.9% from two or more races. Hispanics or Latinos of any race were 8.6% of the population.

Religion

According to Sperling's BestPlaces, a little over 60% of Marshall's population are religious. Baptists and Methodists are the largest Christian groups in Marshall (39.3% and 6.1%). Following, the Roman Catholic Church is the third largest Christian body in the city (5.6%). Pentecostals, Presbyterians, Anglicans/Episcopalians, the Latter-Day Saints, and Lutherans are the remainder. Christians of other faiths accounted for a total of 5.4% of the religious demographic. Less than 1% of Marshall's non-Christian inhabitants were Jewish, Muslim, or followed an eastern faith.

Of the Baptist population in Marshall, the largest denominations as of 2020 are the predominantly African American National Baptist Convention USA and the National Baptist Convention of America, the Southern Baptist Convention, and the Baptist General Convention of Texas. The United Methodist Church was the largest Methodist denomination, and Pentecostals were divided between the Assemblies of God USA and Oneness (non-Trinitarian) United Pentecostal Church International. The Presbyterian Church USA is the largest Presbyterian denomination, and Anglicans and Episcopalians were affiliated with the Episcopal Church in the United States.

Economy

Marshall's economy is diversified and includes services such as insurance claims processing at Health Care Service Corporation, also known as BlueCross BlueShield of Texas, education at several institutes of higher learning, manufacturing such as wood kitchen cabinets at Republic Industries and pottery at several manufacturers. Tourism is also an important industry, with about one million tourists visiting the city each year. Companies with a significant presence in Marshall and surrounding area include: AT&T, Metro by T-Mobile, Verizon, GameStop, Suddenlink, Citi Trends, Walgreens, Big Lots, Walmart, and Brookshire Grocery Company.

Government

Local government

The City of Marshall has a council–manager form of municipal government, with all governmental powers resting in a legislative body called the City Council. The council passes all city laws and ordinances, adopts budgets, determines city policy, and appoints city officials, including the city manager, who serves as the executive of the city government and is in charge of enforcing city laws and administering the city's various departments.

City council

200px|right|thumb|City Hall in Marshall

The city council has seven members, each elected from a single-member district. Districts 1−4 divide the city into four districts, and the districts 5−7 divide the city into three districts that overlay Districts 1−4. So, every location in the city falls in two districts, one from each set. Each council member is elected to a two-year term. Districts 1−4 hold elections in odd-numbered years and districts 5−7 in even years; elections are held in the spring.

After each election, the city council selects a council member to serve as chairman, generically called a mayor, until after the next year's election. If no one files to run against a council member, as happened with District 1 in 2005, the council member is reinstated and an election for that district is not held that year.

The city council meets twice a month on the second and fourth Thursdays. Additional special sessions may be called or regular meetings cancelled. The Council provides a public forum before each regular session providing citizens the opportunity to address the commission for two minutes without forward notice; with notice, additional time may be scheduled. The council meetings are broadcast on radio and on the local government-access television, public-access television cable TV station.

Council/Commission members

Municipal services

Management of the city and coordination of city services are provided by:

State government

Marshall is represented in the Texas Senate by Republican Bryan Hughes, District 1, and in the Texas House of Representatives by Republican Chris Paddie, District 9.

The Texas Department of Criminal Justice operates the Marshall District Parole Office in Marshall.

Federal government

At the federal level, the two current United States senators from Texas are Republicans John Cornyn and Ted Cruz. Marshall is located in Texas's 1st congressional district currently represented by Republican Louie Gohmert.

The United States Postal Service operates the Marshall Post Office.

Much of the U.S.'s patent litigation is handled in or around Marshall, Texas.

Education

Secondary and primary education in the city is almost entirely conducted by the Marshall Independent School District, with approximately 6,000 students at eight campuses. Trinity Episcopal School serves students from preschool through eighth grade at two campuses.

Higher education

More than 3,500 students annually attend colleges in the city: East Texas Baptist University, Wiley College, Texas State Technical College-Marshall, and Panola College-Marshall.

Wiley College is one of the oldest historically black institutions in the United States. It was the setting of the film The Great Debaters, which depicted Wiley College's debate team's struggle for racial equality. The team challenged the Harvard University debate team on the national circuit. In reality, Melvin B. Tolson's 1935 debate team, which included civil rights leader James Farmer, debated and defeated that year's Pi Kappa Delta Forensic Society's national champions, the University of Southern California.

Media

The city has one newspaper, The Marshall News Messenger, a subsidiary of the nearby Longview newspaper. Marshall is home to three radio stations.

Marshall has an ABC news office. The city is within the reception area of broadcasters based in Shreveport, Louisiana: KTBS (ABC), KSLA (CBS), KMSS (FOX), KTAL (NBC), KPXJ (The CW), KSHV-TV (My Network TV), and KLTS (Louisiana Public Broadcasting). Nearby Longview is within the reception of both the Shreveport and Tyler, Texas media markets.

The local cable company, Fidelity Communications (formerly Cobridge Communications), provides public-access television channels that show local football games produced by KMHT radio, and meetings of the city and county commissions (both live and replayed), as well as streaming audio from KMHT. Marshall is also the home of the weekly podcast "Beyond the Pine Curtain".

Transportation

Major highways and interstates in Marshall

Marshall is served by two taxicab companies. The Harrison County Airport is located in Marshall.

Ongoing expansion of Interstate 69 from Indianapolis, Indiana, to Victoria, Texas, will create Interstate 369 branching off from Tenaha, Texas and go north to Texarkana, Texas, using U.S. Highway 59 via Marshall.

Passenger rail

Sites of interest

Photo Gallery

Notable people